While on a boat to Tawi-Tawi in 2017, we passed by the province of Sulu. After hours of seeing nothing but water, the sight of the mountain, with its summit in full view, was refreshing! Our newfound friends from Sulu, Tausug brothers Al Dub and Jam, shared its name: Bud Tumantangis (Bud is Tausug for “mountain”). At a height of 811 meters, it’s Sulu’s highest peak. As an avid hiker, I have been hoping to visit the mountain ever since, but due to security issues, it was not possible.
In September 2023, the province was finally declared free from the Abu Sayyaf Group (ASG), a predominant terrorist group in the province. With time and budget aligned, I joined two other friends for the trip.
Getting to Sulu is an adventure in itself. From Manila, we flew to Zamboanga City. Before catching our flight to Sulu the next day, we stopped at Alavar, a seafood restaurant famous for its curacha or spanner crab. Alavar’s special sauce enhances the crab’s flavor, making each bite even more delightful.
From Zamboanga Airport, we flew to Jolo, the capital of Sulu. While many travelers take the eight-hour overnight boat from the Zamboanga City port, we opted to take the 55-minute plane ride with Ezzan Air, as we were only traveling for the weekend.
Landing at Jolo Airport couldn’t have been more exciting. As we approached the runway, I could see mountains and the sea, its waters so clear that the white sand beneath was visible.
We were welcomed by Na Jib, our contact for the hike, who took care of coordinating with the military and arranging transportation in Sulu. Then came another much-awaited experience: Kahawa sug, Sulu’s signature coffee. It is from the Robusta species, giving it a strong, bold flavor. Near the airport, we were introduced to local delicacies and bought some as snacks for our hike at a branch of Shara’s, a popular local cafe.
After meeting the rest of the group, we traveled to the trailhead in Indanan. By the time we started hiking, it was already past 10:30 AM. We were joined by 11 other hikers from Sulu and about 5 unarmed military escorts.
The trail to the summit started off gently. Soon, we were surrounded by ferns growing abundantly along the path. As we approached the steeper sections, I found myself grabbing onto tree branches for support. The soil was loose but manageable, the hike moderately challenging. Thankfully, there were plenty of flat spots where we could rest and connect with our companions. It was also fun to hear about their other outdoor adventures in the province, such as SCUBA diving and trail running.
After two and a half hours, we reached the summit of Bud Tumantangis. Heavy clouds loomed above us, occasionally teasing us with brief glimpses of the sea before covering what would have been a beautiful view. Still, it was a wonderful moment—a dream come true!
After the hike, we visited the army camp to thank the military personnel who had accompanied us. Once again, we enjoyed cups of Kahawa sug, a much-needed pick-me-up after a long day.
A visit to Sulu is not complete without experiencing a dip in its pristine waters. We headed to Tanduh, a beautiful white-sand beach popular with locals. It was easy to see why. The sand was powdery, and the water was crystal clear and inviting! Since the population in Sulu is predominantly Muslim, modest swimwear is required for women: no sleeveless tops or bottoms above the knees. I wore a shirt and leggings, the same outfit I had on for the hike. Male visitors are advised not to remove their shirts.
Getting to the province of Sulu wasn’t easy and is certainly not for everyone, but it is well worth it for adventurous travelers who appreciate different cultures and cuisine. In the past, a visit might have seemed worrisome due to peace and order concerns. Nowadays, you just need to coordinate with the Sulu Provincial Tourism Office at least a week in advance and provide a letter of intent, along with a copy of valid government IDs, since accommodations and public transportation are limited.
Alternatively, you can get in touch with a government-accredited tour operator who can take care of all the arrangements. One option is Zamboanga Itravel Tourist Lane.
As Sulu’s tallest mountain, Bud Tumantangis makes a great addition to your hiking list. Other mountains worth exploring include Bud Dajo, the province’s second highest and a memorial site for the First Battle of Bud Dajo in 1906 between the American forces and Tausugs who resisted colonial rule. There’s also Bud Sinumaan and a lot more awaiting you!
