In a world that often encourages constant movement and packed itineraries, Biliran reminds one of the joys of slow travel.
I didn’t know much about Biliran, an island province in Eastern Visayas – and that felt like reason enough to go. What little I found online highlighted the usual attractions – island hopping to Sambawan or Maripipi, and visits to the province’s many waterfalls. But I was just as curious about the everyday stuff: what the people were like, what the downtown area looked like, and how it felt to walk around its streets like a local.
The trip took about five hours: a flight from Manila to Tacloban City, followed by a van and a tricycle to reach Naval, the provincial capital. Every leg of the journey was straightforward, with transportation readily available along the way.
Downtown Naval was modest and familiar, with fast-food chains, a department store, and a busy public market all within walking distance. It felt like any small provincial town, only blessed with a majestic view of the Tres Marias Mountain Range – a constant backdrop.
Wanting to get a feel for what it was like to be a local, even if only for a short while, I first stopped for a quick lunch at Cusina de Salas, a modest eatery recommended by a friend who had discovered it during a visit in 2017. With delicious, quality food, it was no surprise it remains a local favorite to this day. After lunch, I headed to the public market to buy fruits and local delicacies.
Getting Settled
In need of caffeine a little past noon, I headed to one of the air-conditioned cafes in town. Two cups of coffee later, with a bagful of mangosteen, lanzones, and oranges slung over my shoulder, I made my way toward my accommodation for the night, Agta Beach Resort, another thirty minutes away. From Naval, I flagged down a tricycle, whose kind driver refused to overcharge me, making the ride easy and comfortable.
Even before we fully set off, I felt a wave of dizziness creep in, likely due to lack of sleep, heat, and too much caffeine. As we left downtown and traveled along the highway, the view shifted. Tres Marias came into full sight, their green slopes stretching against the clear skies. I felt instantly recharged. The cool January air felt wonderful as it brushed against my skin.
When I finally arrived at the resort, I was welcomed with warm smiles, as if I were a frequent guest. I unpacked without hurry, then sat at the desk peeling fruit, the juice oozing from my fingers. These fruits felt like the perfect snack: no sugar crash, just wholesome nourishment. Alone in that room, with the sound of the sea nearby, I felt truly settled and relieved that the videoke a nearby resort didn’t reach my room.
Quiet Spaces
After resting, I headed to Mondelos Nature Park, a thirty-minute ride away in the municipality of Kawayan. I found this spot the old-fashioned way: by browsing Google Maps and following curiosity rather than trends. Perched at a higher elevation, the park offered sweeping views of both coast and mountains, including Mount Panamao and Subing-Subing Hill. There were plenty of quiet corners, and more than once, I realized I had unintentionally wandered into the private moments of dating couples. They were in their own little world, unbothered by a stranger happily wandering around and admiring the flowers.
Falling for Biliran’s Misty Wonders
Biliran is known for its waterfalls, and I didn’t want to leave without seeing at least one. I asked a motorbike driver to take me to the nearest falls. From the park, we rode into the mountains along steep, winding roads in Almeria, which turned the journey into an unexpected core workout. I had to readjust constantly just to stay balanced. Thankfully, the driver brought along his female friend, who sat between us, making the ride feel more comfortable, especially during the downhill stretches when being pressed together thigh-to-thigh was inevitable.
When we arrived, it was a brief five-minute walk down a concrete staircase, with dense greenery closing in on both sides. The sound of rushing water from Ulan-Ulan Falls grew louder with each step. Standing there, surrounded by nature, a familiar feeling settled over me. I live for these moments!
I didn’t do much the next day. I had a simple breakfast of fish, rice, and eggs while watching the sea, savoring its stillness.
My weekend in Biliran was short but soul-nurturing. It left me with a calm that lingered even after I returned home. In a world that often encourages constant movement and packed itineraries, Biliran reminded me of the joy of traveling at my own pace — and that, perhaps, I was getting too old for motorbike rides.
