“Some places are far greater than the stigma they have long been associated with, and I’m here for it.”
These were the words in my head the moment I set foot in Basilan for the first time.
For ages, Mindanao, particularly its western and central regions, has carried the stigma of being the most unsafe place to travel in the Philippines. The historical, long-standing conflict between the Philippine government and insurgent groups, and the presence of notorious militant groups overshadowed the region’s natural and cultural beauty and diversity. Such stigma still somehow haunts Mindanao and keeps it on foreign countries’ list of high-risk destinations– though it did not stop travelers from researching and exploring it.
Among these Mindanao provinces that foreign tourism agencies (and my mother) would warn you about is Basilan. With all the news about it, in my head, it was an unsafe destination — until I traveled there.
Basilan is one of five provinces in the Bangsamoro Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao (BARMM), along with Lanao del Sur, Maguindanao del Norte, Maguindanao del Sur, and Tawi-Tawi. It is located off the coast of Zamboanga City, just on the northeast side of Sulu. Some two hours away from Zamboanga City by ferry lies the City of Isabela, Basilan’s capital and the gateway to the province.
Basilan is home to the predominantly Muslim Yakan people, who were later joined by Tausug of Sulu and Chavacanos of Zamboanga.
The island is fringed and dotted with natural wonders that truly left me in awe, especially its beaches and waterfalls. Among those that stood out for me were Malamawi island, Tinuse Beach, and Bulingan (Lamitan) Falls.
Gastronomic wonders
A trip to a local destination would not be complete without a gastronomic side quest. We drove to the public market in Lamitan City and walked our way to a section for famous Yakan delicacies: ja at panyam (or panyalam), a traditional Filipino-Bangsamoro fried rice pancake made by mixing ground glutinous rice, muscovado (brown sugar), and coconut milk, then deep frying. It is commonly served during special occasions and religious holidays in the province.
Panyam also serves as a filling of a Dulang (a muslim food tray) or a Maliguey (a traditional cake house). On the other hand, ja, also known as lokot, are deep-fried sweet crispies made from rice flour, sugar, and water and are typically served as an appetizer on special occasions. It is usually served in bang bang – a tray composed of pastries or finger food in the region.
Nature’s handiwork
After filling ourselves with some Yakan delicacies, we visited one of the most popular and stunning waterfalls in Lamitan: Bulingan Falls. It looked like an amphitheater tucked in a lush green forest. The rock formation where water cascades is nature’s handiwork. We shared the falls with a few locals who were having a picnic and enjoying a cool dip on a warm day.
After about a two-hour drive from Lamitan and a ten-minute boat ride from Buli-Buli in Sumisip, we reached Tinuse Beach on Bihintinusa Island. Travelers who have been to a lot of islands might say “It’s just another pretty island,” but it isn’t for me – or us. It was pristine, peaceful, and special, untouched by judgment and misunderstanding. It was a beautiful conclusion to our first day in Basilan.
As much as we would like to witness the sunset, we hurriedly left as the swells started getting bigger and could easily capsize our boat.
Before we left the province, we spent the quiet half of the day with a quick trip from Isabela City to Pahali Beach in Malamawi Island. I felt that familiar feeling for Pahali as I did for Tinuse. But apart from innocence, there was also that feeling of freedom. Although Tinuse is raw and Pahali is well-maintained, exclusive, and secure, in both, we had the long stretch of the bone-white beach almost to ourselves.
During my visit to Basilan, every step was a step away from stigma. I consider my trip to the province to be among the journeys that I’m glad to have embarked on, for it was a true feast to the senses. Above all, it debunked the world’s long-held notion of it. It’s easily among my top favorites, and I wouldn’t think twice about coming back.
