Often mentioned last in conversations about Bicol, Catanduanes surprised me so much that it quickly became one of my top five favorite provinces in the Philippines. Its unassuming surf culture, rolling hills that meet the Pacific, and surreal rock formations make it rugged and breathtaking. Mornings reveal mist-covered peaks, while waterfalls, lagoons, and white-sand coves complete its collective draw.
A Stunning Reel of Picture-Perfect Landscapes
It took only a few pre-and post-COVID-19 pandemic visits to this so-called “Happy Island” to deepen my fondness for it. With mountains watching over winding roads and random stops revealing postcard views, each trip reminded me of why this island stands out.
Puraran Beach in Baras, long a sanctuary for surfers, lures wave riders from across the globe. Yet, beyond surfing lies a deeper appeal: a laidback rhythm where time slows down with the tide. Framed by rocks and deep blue waters, its modest resorts blend with the surroundings, offering visitors a slice of the island’s unhurried life.
Binurong Point, also in Baras, is perfect for a short and satisfying hike. A muddy trail leads to sweeping hills and cliffs where Pacific waves crash below. Its vast carpet of grass, gusty wind, and soft light make the entire scene cinematic — one best witnessed at sunrise when golden rays wash over the mountains.
Lagoons, Hills, and Other Visit-Worthy Attractions
As a child of the ‘80s, I grew up watching The Blue Lagoon, that Brooke Shields film that defined what paradise looks like. Catanduanes’ lagoons not only lived up to that image; they surpassed it.
In Bato, the Poseidon Rock Formation reveals twin lagoons carved beneath massive boulders. A natural archway forms a tidal pool of crystal water, perfect for swimming or snorkeling. The higher pool sits within the rocks, while another rests almost at level with the sea, its waters merging with the horizon.
Also in Bato, Maribina Falls is an easily accessible six-meter cascade with pristine pools perfect for swimming. Just nearby stands the centuries-old St. John the Baptist Church, overlooking the town from a hill, offering both history and quiet contemplation.
In Pandan, nature’s artistry continues with Cagnipa Rolling Hills, a breezy terrain where cows graze freely and each step opens to a panorama of the ocean and sky. A short hike farther leads to the Tuwad-Tuwadan Lagoon, where jagged rocks and a tidal pool have been shaped by centuries of waves. Wading through the lagoon’s glassy waters and walking barefoot on Cagnipa’s soft grass, reminded me of nature’s power to produce such beauty.
Beaches, Countryside, and Cinematic Moments
Up north in Caramoran lies the remote Palumbanes group of islands. After an hour-long boat ride, beach lovers are rewarded with turquoise waters, powdery sand, and coral reefs teeming with life. Whether you anchor at Parongpong, Tignob, or Calabagio Island, serenity reigns supreme.
One of the best things about Catanduanes is the freedom of its open road. You don’t need a map, as Instagrammable spots appear at every turn. They include a lunch stop at Paraiso ni Honesto, a hilltop resort where the real treat was the endless view of the Pacific and a cool breeze that lulled us into calm.
We rose before dawn to visit Summit View Park, another vantage point in Viga. Over latik and coffee, we watched a sea of clouds slowly unfold before us, a gentle reminder of the island’s serene life.
Local Craft
Officially the “Abaca Capital of the Philippines” by virtue of Republic Act No. 11700, Catanduanes thrives on its abaca industry. Over 13,000 farmers cultivate 30,000 hectares of abaca plantations, sustaining their families while preserving tradition. In San Andres, the Calolbon Abaca Crafts and Carpets Enterprise keep weaving alive, producing beautiful, world-exported handicraft.
A Place That Lingers
Catanduanes lingers long after you’ve left in its slow pace, natural beauty, and heartfelt simplicity. Almost every town offers an opportunity to pause, to connect with nature, or simply to breathe. True to its moniker, guided by the warmth of its people, the island invites you to explore without hurry. Whether you come for surfing, serenity, or just to wander, Catanduanes will make you want to return again and again.
