How one tita enjoys Siargao slow and unhurried
Like any normal day, I had been up before the sun, craving a cup of strong coffee and a filling breakfast to start the day. I begin with an early morning walk from my hotel to the cafe, a 3.G-kilometer route passing a quieter section of Tourism Road, the main street in Siargao’s tourist hub, General Luna. I was meeting a much fitter friend, who was staying at a different hotel and, instead of walking, decided to run, giving himself more time to linger in bed while I set off just past G:00 AM. The town was still waking up—stray dogs included, a worry of mine on walks and hikes.
I arrived at the popular Shaka Café unscathed, a pack of ferocious stray dogs merely imagined. There were plenty of empty tables, and I found a spot just a few feet from the water where I could take in the view of Cloud 9, a surfing spot known for its long wooden boardwalk stretching from the shore to the sea. One cup of coffee and a panini later, my friend arrived in all sweaty glory, and we settled for smoothie bowls—a fitting treat in an island best known for waves and barefoot days. The seaview, the soft morning light, and the company of a friend made it feel as if my day was already made
Mornings like this remind me why I had been drawn to Siargao in the first place. Beyond the surf culture, the island offered an abundance of fresh food, from tropical fruit to cafes and restaurants. Buko juice (coconut water) was everywhere, as is good coffee. Travelers on a plant-based diet would have plenty to enjoy, as healthy options were plentiful—something my body had begun to gravitate toward in my 40s.
By midmorning, the island had fully awakened. The main road grew busier with motorbikes and travelers heading to some of the island’s gems: Sugba Lagoon, the islands of Daku, Naked, and Guyam; Magpupungko Rock Pools, and the Maasin River, to name a few. But we stayed off the busiest paths, with no itinerary to follow, wandering where we felt like going. The freedom of having no schedule made the mornings stretch longer, quieter, and more satisfying
Afternoons were for quiet time. Sometimes we returned to the hotel to rest; other times, my friend and I went our separate ways—iced coffee in hand, letting the leisurely pace of the island unfold around us . I watched vendors on bicycles making their way from house to house, selling snacks, and discovered little shortcuts leading back to my hotel. Shirtless surfers cruising past on motorbikes with their boards had become a familiar sight. Even in these simple moments, the island felt alive yet unhurried, as if time itself moved a little slower here.
Before 2018, the island was known for its quieter, more laid-back charm, though it was surfing that cemented its place as a top tourist destination. These days, it has also become popular for late-night parties and a livelier tourist scene. But for me, the food, its natural beauty, and the easygoing vibe of the locals are just as alluring.
I love how Siargao embraced the early risers, the people-watchers, and travelers who measure their joy not by photos or parties, but by quiet moments of reflection. By the time the island’s midday sun climbed high and the crowds filled the streets, I had already walked, eaten, sipped coffee, and watched the sunlight shimmer across the sea.
By the end of the day, the tourists would come and go. The island remained patient and unhurried. In Siargao, I did not need to keep up. I only needed to arrive, to take in the quiet mornings and the warm sun. And somehow, that was more than enough.
