El Nido was one of the first local destinations I visited when the travel bug bit me. Its tropical allure – white sand beaches and pristine lagoons – backpacker vibe, and laidback town attracted both local and foreign tourists, including myself. I liked the place so much that I visited it for two consecutive years.
My first visit more than a decade ago was quite an experience. Direct flights were rare (and a privilege) or non-existent. To reach El Nido, most people took either the bus or van from Puerto Princesa. Electricity wasn’t available for 24 hours. There were no ATMs; I would overhear foreigners calling friends or relatives to send them cash. Fast forward to today, you can conveniently withdraw cash from an ATM and pay for transactions using your credit card.
The Face of Development in El Nido
Between then and my recent visit, I saw and experienced the contrasts of El Nido. The changes within the last decade were dramatic. Although in some sports, there are a few vestiges of the town’s rural past, there are more hotels, restaurants, cafes, shops, and tourists in El Nido now. Some places cost as much as dining out in BGC or Makati.
Development has also branched further away from the town center. Marimegmeg Beach, now known as Vanilla Beach, now has its own paved walkway and stairs, complete with a gym, a McDonald’s, and shops. The beach was just as beautiful as I remembered; but now teeming with hotels and restaurants. Still, I deem it the best spot to watch the sunset near El Nido town.
Observations While Revisiting the Islands
Travelers don’t simply visit El Nido to spend all their time drinking, eating, or just hanging out in town. Plenty of them rent a private boat or join a tour to explore the islands. I was excited to see some of my favorite islands, lagoons, and beaches again, which include Cadlao Lagoon, Helicopter Island, Big and Small Lagoon, and Hidden Beach, among others. A few still had their old charm allure, but are more packed with visitors now.
I asked our guide about one island I went to before. It was a surprise when he said that it is now private property and no longer part of any island hopping itinerary. I considered myself lucky to have been able to visit it and snorkel before it was purchased.
The Cost of Development
The El Nido I once knew is long gone. The modern-day El Nido resembles some of the islands I visited in Thailand such as Krabi, Koh Samui, and Phuket. While it’s not quite as commercialized, maybe it will be in a few more years.
Tourism development comes at a cost. But whether those are good or bad will always be up for debate. My last visit to El Nido showed me it still has its own kind of beauty. When I found a quiet spot, away from the crowds, the sunset was just as beautiful as it always had been.
