The ambivalence of Manila’s sunsets from an ecological and sunset-loving standpoint
To me and to possibly many Filipinos, the Manila Bay sunset is scenery that never gets old. Its beauty is arguably iconic to Manila and has been immortalized in photographs and artworks, including one painted by National Artist Fernando Amorsolo.
Anyone can watch the sunset anywhere from the Coastal Road to Roxas Boulevard. I myself have done so while commuting. However, there are standout places where one can stay and savor the view.
Seaside Boulevard: Most Leisurely Experience
My favorite sunset spot is Seaside Boulevard in Pasay. I would sit – sometimes alone, sometimes with loved ones – on the long stretch of the seawall and watch the sky catch fire in vivid oranges before smoldering into blues and blacks by sundown. I found that if you walk far enough, you can find a place to sit even during the busy weekends.
I also feel this sunset spot is truly for everyone. Aside from the usual sight of couples, many office workers make their way here for some alone time, as well as students bantering and laughing as they sit next to each other on the seawall. I’ve found myself smiling when I see families with excited kids — and cats, too!
Plagued by Issues
While the view is postcard-perfect, there are undoubtedly reminders that this sunset is in a highly urbanized city fraught with development and environmental issues. Even with ongoing rehabilitation initiatives, trash lines the rocks, and occasionally, the wind carries a whiff of garbage.
Last year, I saw the previously unbroken horizon now marred with shadows of SM’s artificial islands reclamation project. The project has come under fire as it reportedly affects marine life, threatens fisherfolk’s livelihood, and poses a possible flooding hazard.
Of course, the irony of me sitting on a structure on reclaimed land while watching the sun dip into the now-obstructed horizon was not lost on me.
These legitimate issues notwithstanding, I understand why people keep coming here. It is a free and accessible public space where anyone can view the sunset for as long as they like. My reason is the same.
Sunset with a Backdrop at Harbor Square
To the right of the Cultural Center of the Philippines is Harbor Square, which also sits on reclaimed land. As the name suggests, boats, including yachts, are docked in the waters, and their shapes form a distinct backdrop for the sunset. Once twilight sets in and you set your sights to your right, buildings along Roxas Boulevard stretch gradually light up.
Although there are restaurants along the baywalk, the best view of the sunset is still near the edge. While it does not have as many sunset viewers as the Seaside Boulevard seawall, I found bikers lingering, and locals engaged in hook-and-line fishing. I talked to a few and have so much respect for their patience in waiting for a catch amid the bay’s polluted waters.
A Controversial Yet Scenic sunset at the Dolomite Beach
Farther along Roxas Boulevard is a beach with seemingly white sand, but is, in fact, made of dolomite, a non-metallic material used in making cement and other construction materials.
While the beach looks stunning, researchers and scientists have raised concerns on the effect of the dolomite particles on marine life, and its shore being a likely flood hazard.
Still, crowds flock here, mainly because Filipinos love white sand beaches. I chanced upon a photo of the beach overflowing with people during Holy Week. Curious, I visited it after attending a workshop at a nearby hotel. The shore looked like it was made of coarse white sand and crushed coral. It was good enough for a beach in the city, but it was still the undoubtedly natural sunset that stole the show.
We visitors either sat on the sand or on one of the beach’s driftwood logs while witnessing the sun vividly paint the sky. The next day, I watched from another angle: this time, with other onlookers from the overpass leading down to the beach, and it was every bit as beautiful.
While the beauty of these places comes with the weight of real and heavy environmental issues, I understand why people keep coming here, myself included. In Metro Manila where we woefully lack free or affordable ‘third spaces’ to relax and spend time with our loved ones, these Manila Bay sunset spots serve as a respite. To me, watching sunsets from these spaces also means it is still possible to take comfort in Manila’s beauty amid its nuances and complexities.
