A traveler shares the best spots to explore along Siquijor’s 72-kilometer circumferential roadspots on two wheels
The island of Siquijor has long been linked to stories of witchcraft, folklore, and the occult. But if I could bottle the island’s essence, it would taste like a soul-healing elixir rather than a deceptive love potion or toxic brew.
During my last trip to the intriguing island more than a decade ago, I was eager to once again soak up the island’s mystical properties that first bewitched me. With enchanting spots scattered along its 72-kilometer circumferential road, Siquijor invites exploration.
Since public transportation is sparse in some areas, solo travelers find two-wheeled travel the best way to uncover the island’s secrets.
Arriving and exploring
Coming from Dumaguete, I arrived by ferry at the Siquijor port. Located southwest of the island, the capital is the central hub, with St. Francis of Assisi Church being the main landmark. Convenient motorcycle rentals are available outside the port, ready for the road ahead.
Most resorts are located in San Juan, another 15 to 30-minute drive away. I booked a secluded garden room at Baha Bar, home to the island’s first and only microbrewery. The resort’s stunning restaurant and bar look like a mix between a tropical villa and a sugar baron’s mansion.
Driving counterclockwise from the resort, the first point of interest is Capilay Spring Park, a public park in San Juan with spring-fed swimming pools that draw their water from the surrounding mountains. Despite being located in the middle of a plaza across a street lined with banks and commercial businesses, the area is surrounded by lush greenery.
A few minutes’ drive away is the Enchanted Balete Tree, a 400-year-old tree with a natural spring. Superstitious folk believe the tree is home to spirits from the underworld. These days, tourists flock to get their feet nibbled by fish in the spa pool beneath the tree’s roots. Nearby souvenir stalls sell love potions in vials, wooden hexes, charms, amulets, mini-voodoo doll keychains, and magnets with witches on broomsticks.
A short detour will take you to Cambugahay Falls, a multi- tiered waterfall known for its crystal-clear, turquoise blue pools. While delightfully deserted and peaceful the first time I visited, this area has become a tourist hotspot for swimming, cliff jumping, rope swings, and fairy walks over the water.
I drive onwards to the town of Lazi, where the Lazi Church and Lazi Convent are located. The church, founded in 1857, was declared a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines, while the convent is one of the largest built during the Spanish colonial era.
Recently restored, the bahay na bato structure, built of coral stones and hardwood, houses the I continue towards Maria, a laid-back coastal town with lush scenery on the east coast.
A wooden sign points to the entrance of Salogdoong Forest, leading to a snaking forest path and a cove where a cliff-diving spot, popular with thrill seekers, awaits. It’s a peaceful spot to shoot the breeze while overlooking the ocean.
The Cang- Isok House, a ramshackle house considered a local landmark in the town of Enrique Villanueva, has seen better days. Other spots, like the Tulapos Marine Sanctuary, require a day of diving to fully appreciate.
In the port town of Larena in the northeast, I find that Guiwanon Spring Park, the once scenic mangrove forest park with boardwalks, is no longer accessible to the public. My last stop before heading back is Siquijor’s Kilometer Zero marker beside a sari- sari store. The nondescript signpost serves as a reference point for all roads on the island.
Settling In After a Full-Day Loop
Satisfied with having looped the island for a second time, I head back to my resort for dinner. Baha Bar’s regular menu features Filipino cuisine making use of the freshest catch of the day and ingredients from their own farm. Dishes are based on the Filipina owner’s recipes, growing up in Surigao, Mindanao.
My visit happens to fall on a Friday, when the bar offers seafood and lechon buffet dinners, attracting locals and tourists alike. As dusk settles, the dining hall fill with chatter over meals, mingling with live music from a local band.
From a tourist’s point of view, there’s really not much to see along some stretches of the highway. Anyone can easily loop the island in two hours or less. But like all good things in life, the journey is best savored slowly. Beyond sights to visit along the highway, Siquijor’s magic sparkles every time you pause to breathe and enjoy life’s little pleasures. The quiet, dusty roads provide enough distance for the breeze to blow away the cobwebs in your head as you drive. Stumbling upon quiet spots that offer views along the coast can sometimes be more satisfying. There’s no need to rush when you’re on island time.
